Another de Grazia wine (source of some of my favorite Italians lately), and one of my all-time favorite affordable Piedmontese reds. Dolcetto in general can be really frustrating: potentially lovely but more often brusquely tannic, with shrill and unpleasantly aggressive fruit. This wine is an example of the grape at its best, where earth and blackberry notes greet the nose with firm mineral notes that underlay the fruit. While there are some similarities to good cru Beaujolais in overall character with generous, intriguing black fruit and spice notes held teasingly in check by bracing acidity and framed by firm but fine tannins, this wine is firmly Italian. Serve it with slow-stewed beef or pork shoulder, mushroom risotto (or really any flavorful mushroom dish). The 2000 vintage of this wine was so memorable (and the wine itself rare enough) that finding some recent vintages felt like running into a particularly interesting old friend. Worth savoring. Around $19-$20/bottle.

I recently tried this charming but commanding Chianti Classico again. It’s exported by Marc de Grazia, who carefully chooses small estates who produce wines with much regional character–some of them a bit too oaky/alcoholic for my taste, but this Chianti has much to offer. Dense, muscular and somewhat impenetrable when first opened, brightly acidic with crisply articulated fruit and spice notes after about three hours of aeration. Loads of black cherry fruit, some earthy, almost evergreen notes, licorice, minerals. 14 months in old barriques provides a subtle, unobtrusive smoky undertone for the fruit. Really interesting stuff. Try it with steak au poivre, grilled venison or other slightly gamey meat paired with a mushroom risotto. I broke my under-$20 rule right off the bat, but this one’s worth it. Around $30/bottle.