Podere il Palazzino Chianti Classico, “La Pieve” 2004

I recently tried this charming but commanding Chianti Classico again. It’s exported by Marc de Grazia, who carefully chooses small estates who produce wines with much regional character–some of them a bit too oaky/alcoholic for my taste, but this Chianti has much to offer. Dense, muscular and somewhat impenetrable when first opened, brightly acidic with crisply articulated fruit and spice notes after about three hours of aeration. Loads of black cherry fruit, some earthy, almost evergreen notes, licorice, minerals. 14 months in old barriques provides a subtle, unobtrusive smoky undertone for the fruit. Really interesting stuff. Try it with steak au poivre, grilled venison or other slightly gamey meat paired with a mushroom risotto. I broke my under-$20 rule right off the bat, but this one’s worth it. Around $30/bottle.